Frequently asked Questions

Celtic Knot Question:

I have received several emails asking for more detail on how the Celtic knot was done.

There are two things that are critical.
First, you must replace the kerf you cut with wood that is the same width as the blade that cut it.
Second, you need to use a stop block so each cut starts at the same point.

The angle that you choose to cross cut the blank is not critical. I used 20 Degrees for the Ornament.
where 90 degrees is a strait cross cut, or 0 degrees. The more angle you use, the wider the knot will be.
I used bloodwood and a couple veneers that together were the same width as the blade. In this case the blade was 1/8".

The use of a stop block is important so each cut has the same start point. Using a square blank, you will cut one time for each side.
Cut then glue in place a contrasting color of wood, flip the blank and cut the next side and repeat. You will need to remove any wood
that extends beyond the surface of the turning blank so you can accurately set the blank against the fence for the next cut.

Do you have plans for the cross cut sled for cutting segments?

I don't have plans per say. The basic idea came from Kevin's Woodturnings  (See Links Page)
He is a good source for ideas on segmented turning.
My latest sled has stops at frequently used angles to make it more versatile.
The original sled is set at 15 degrees. ( 12 segments )
The stops are eccentric disks that can be rotated to change the stop pin location to calibrate the fence angle.
See Segment Sled Here
The plastic indicator over the self adhesive rule ( Rockler ) was made of polycarbonate and scribed on the back side with an awl. I then rubbed red paint onto it and wiped off the excess. This makes a nice hairline to get repeatable adjustments.
There is a very good book by Malcolm Tibbetts called "The art of Segmented Turning". (See Links Page)

He goes into a ton of detail on how he made jigs used to make his marvelous creations.

Do you have plans for the thickness sander used in your video?

Here are a few sanders that are on the web.
The first link is for the one I built. I have found several more since I built mine.
It sure makes bowl construction go a lot faster.

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/readarticle.pl?dir=powertools&file=articles_528.shtml

http://www.rockslide.org/drum sander.html

http://www.plansnow.com/dn3078.html


Do you have plans for your Turning Cabinet.

Yes, well sort of.
You can see what I used to build it.

click here


How about the pattern on the Cherry Southwest Bowl?

This was done by making a checkerboard and then cutting it on the diagonal to make the segments.
Since making this video, I have learned a better way to make this pattern.
Glue up the feature layer on a straight surface with a backstop with enough space between the layers to make the pattern without clipping the triangle.
shown here:


 

 

 

 








 

Any dimensions on the Inside-Out Christmas ornament?

The original block was a little over 3", but this is not critical.
The length was about 8" to start. Also not critical, just make it long enough.
Curtis Fuller's tutorial is very helpful for this.

View Curt's Tutorial Here:

He recommends only removing 2/3 of the depth to the center, or on a 3" width
2/3 of the way to the center would be 1".
I went a little closer, to within about ¼".
If you want the ornament to be round, use a compass to measure the desired depth and mark a radius, this will give you the width of the cut.
A wider width will give you an elongated shape.
I made a template to the same radius so I could ensure the final piece would be round.

Since you are cutting from one block, it is best to re-assemble the block to the original orientation.
This makes it look cleaner and will get people asking how this is possible.

To do this, mark and number the outside corners on one end before ripping into squares.
When you re-glue, bring the corners to the center. "turning the inside"

When you finish the interior, reassemble the block with corners in the original position.

What you do not see on the video, is every joint is sanded on a belt sander prior to assembling in order to get the best possible glue joint.
It is also very important to glue up very accurately, and mount exactly on center to get the most balanced looking piece.

Make sure the glue has completely cured in the final turning, and that you are careful not to place too much pressure on the glue joint when mounting between centers. A cup live center is desirable.
Keep a light touch with a firm grip. Use a back light to see the shadow of the edge in the open section.

Have fun.

Who does the music on your videos?

The music is by Kevin MacLeod.
He offers some music Royalty free, on the condition that he receives credit for it. For more info about Kevin, go here:

http://www.incompetech.com

When are you going to remember to empty the sawdust out of your pockets before putting your clothing in the laundry?

Next time. I promise.


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